AUTOFREAK

u čipoteci ima.... temp u mot prostoru joj bas i nije draga.... drzi al kako gdje. Pretezno ih omotajem oko vakum crijeva za pojačivač sile kočenja....

doživio eureko kaze.....pa zar nije mogao diagnostikom očitat temp goriva prije i vidit vrijednosti pa eto onda i iza.... Isto vazi i za senz temp motora.... Ovako je gatanje pa ako prodje prodje

Koliko km ima (pravih) ? Grijači su aktivni ispod 4c. Nemiran rad probat očitat parametre dizni pa vidit koja daje vise nafte. Dakle meho treba imat hladan motor i ustekat diagn i upalit motor i ocitat.

Ako neznas povijest motora ja bi to dao da se glava prečekira komplet... Već ako nije žurba... lagano rastavit je cijelu i prečekirat luft u vodilicama i promjenit ventile gumice.....sredit dosjede pd elemenata (ubacuju se čahure). To bi bilo ono da si miran duze vremena. A ovako ako neces dirat.... dizne svakako treba skidat da bi se prečekirala povrsina glave sa ravnom poločom i vodobrusnim papirom....

Unutarnji nezna jel volan desno levo il pravo. On ako i ostane suh pretezno se razlufta pa imas vibracije pri ubrzavanju.... Kontrolira ga se lako kad se skine pvc plastika ispod

Homić se čuje na punom volanu i bas prati okretanje kotača klasika klak-klak-klak-klak...... unutarnji nediraj jer nes nac kvalitetnijeg od tog starog.... Imas li vag meha... imamo jednog provjerenog u Jakovlju

malo mi je to pre nisko jer tu je spoj s letvom volna tako da firewall nije. Jesi bas 1000 posto siguran da bas otale izvire voda? Da se mozda nesljeva gdje oozgor pa ide rubom tog crnog lima....? Poljevaj šlaufom i trazi.... taj lim je negdje visine mulde dolje ispiod servo bubnja pa skroz na dnu mulde koja ide dalje u sasiju.... vidi sta se tu dogadja... Druga opcija je da mozda ulazi izmjedju 2 lima negdje gore u više. Ja sam imao problem s okašem koji je imao šiber i pustalo bi u kabinu jer cijev nije bila dovoljno vani i islo je izmedju 2 lima nekud u kabinu....

210tkm i nekih 7godina (nepisano pravilo za godine)

Skini kuciste f zraka... na njemu mislim da imas brojeve kod sarafa i kad se oni odvidaju ide kuciste van... tj netreba sve vide... samo te s brojkama. Kad to skines pogledaj kakva je usisna zaklopka.... ako je gas na sajlu rukom zakreni zaklopku izvani i vidi jel čisto grlo...pretežno kroz godine se zaprlja i zna blesit ler gas pa i gasit se. E sad ako je prljavo.... ako si vičan šarafanju... moze se skinit zaklopka...isteka se sajla il struja koja je na njoj.... pa eventualno jedna mala cjevčica i imas 4 vide....pretezno bude imbus 5 al nailazio sam i na torx 30. Kad se klapna skine.... onda ju se opere nitrom il čistačem kočnica al tu ipak treba malo trljat prstima il krpicom a mozda najbolje malim penilom/kistom... Postoji čistač zaklopke al mislim da je to nepotrebno....skida nitro odlicno. Kad se to sve očisti.... i klapn bude cista i po svojim stranama leptira..... vratis nazad i sve slozis nazad i upalis motor. Nece radit fino al nema veze.... Motor je potrebno ugrijat na radnu temp i onda odradit osnovno podesavanje te zaklopke. Nemam delfi a i nevolim ga zbog blesavih prijevoda. Koristim VCDS il nekad VCP. Imao sam polića sa AEE motorom (bas 1.6) Kako se prilagođava zaklopka preko VCDS izvor ross-tech (vdcs): Video : Il ajmo pismeno.... Za vagene sa sajlom gasa.... Turn the key on but do not start the car. [Select] [01 - Engine] [Basic Settings - 04] Enter Group 098 (Note: Some SIMOS or Marelli ECU's use Group 001 such as ADY & AEE engines) [Go!] Once you do this you will see the top right display say ADP RUN. The TB adaptation is being done as soon as you switch to basic settings. You will see the values change and hear the TB cycle for the first few seconds then it will stop. Leave it in Basic Settings for about 30 seconds. Click the [Switch to Meas. Blocks] button and you're all set. Be sure not to touch the accelerator and make sure the engine is NOT running when you do this! Za vagene bez sajle gasa : (These are engines WITHOUT a physical cable between the accelerator and the throttle. Check to see if the engine speaks KW-1281 by looking in the top left of the Open Controller Screen Some examples of KW-1281 engine controllers are 2000+ Golf/GTI/Jetta/New Beetle/Audi TT 1.8T) Turn the key on but do not start the car. [Select] [01 - Engine] [Basic Settings - 04] Enter Group 060 [Go!] Once you do this you will see the top right display say ADP RUN. The TB adaptation is being done as soon as you switch to basic settings. You will see the values change and hear the TB cycle for the first few seconds then it will stop. Leave it in Basic Settings for about 30 seconds. [Switch to Meas. Blocks] button and you're all set. Be sure not to touch the accelerator and make sure the engine is NOT running when you do this! Drive-by-Wire (DBW) Engines using KWP-2000 or CAN (These are engines WITHOUT a physical cable between the accelerator and the throttle. Check to see if the engine speaks KWP-2000 or CAN by looking in the top left of the Open Controller Screen. An example of a KWP-2000 engine controller is the 2002+ B6 Audi A4 1.8T. Some examples of CAN engine controllers are the Mk5 Golf 2.0T FSI) Turn the key on but do not start the car. [Select] [01 - Engine] [Basic Settings - 04] Group 060 [Go!] It should say "Basic Settings: OFF" on the top of your screen. Click [ON/OFF/Next] to turn on Basic Settings. It should now say "Basic Settings: ON" on the top of your screen. Once you do this you will see the top right display say ADP RUN. The TB adaptation is being done as soon as you switched basic settings on. You will see the values change and hear the TB cycle for the first few seconds then it will stop. Leave it in Basic Settings for about 30 seconds. Click [ON/OFF/Next] to turn off Basic Settings. It should now say "Basic Settings: OFF" on the top of your screen Click the [Done, Go Back] button and you're all set. Be sure not to touch the accelerator and make sure the engine is NOT running when you do this! If it did not complete, or resulted in Error, see the Special Notes below. Drive-by-Wire (DBW) Engines using KWP-7000 (UDS/ODX) Check to see if the engine speaks KWP-2000 or CAN by looking in the top left of the Open Controller Screen. UDS modules do not support conventional Measuring Blocks - 08 so that button will be grayed out. They do not support conventional Adaptation - 10 or Basic Settings - 04 group numbers, so all choices are found in drop-down menus in these modules. Make sure the coolant is warm. Turn the key on but do not start the car. [Select] [01 - Engine] [Basic Settings - 04] Choose a variant of Throttle Valve Adaptation from the drop-down list [Go!] to activate the Basic Settings After the result of Finished Correctly appears click [Stop] The TB may cycle for the first few seconds then it will stop. Leave it in Basic Settings for about 30 seconds. Click the [Done, Go Back] button and you're all set. Be sure not to touch the accelerator and make sure the engine is NOT running when you do this! Special Notes In some engines, before doing a TBA, it may be necessary to cycle the ignition off and back on after clearing faults. On vehicles that use Cable-Throttle systems, an over adjusted (or sticky) throttle cable can cause the TBA to fail, or symptoms like no CCS (Cruise Control System) operation. On vehicles that use Cable-Throttle systems the idle may be erratic after the TB has been removed and cleaned, even after a successful TBA. It may be necessary to drive the vehicle normally for a while until the system has re-adapted.

od silne dosade izmisljas posao. Jel radi radi jel trosi puno ulja....netrosi. Nediraj nista i samo gass. Debljinu dihtunga određuje mjera koliko klipovi izlaze van bloka a to s glavom nema veze. Deblji dihtung manja kompresija logično

Ako ga vratis na istu poziciju...nema potrebe. Prije skidanja se obiljezi i nema prolema

jebačina.... Na selenu si potrosio 4sata pa sad vidi koliko je ovo kompleksnije....

stetoskop i trazit izvor. Dok slusas daj nekome da ode u autu i uzastopno par puta brzo napumpa pedalu kocnice..... i javi dal se mjenja zvuk